30th April - Venice to Paris - 1st May Home to London

 

A fellow passenger



Hard to believe the holiday is almost over.  We had just enough time to pack up, head for the station and catch our train ready for an 11 hour jaunt to Paris.   

Farmland in Italy

We were changing trains at Milan so had just over 2 hours on the first train then nearly nine hours on the second train.  Luckily TreinItalia is a very upmarket service and the seat are very roomy and comfortable.  They lie partially down so the trip wasn't too arduous.  We wound our way through the Italian Alps that still had a hint of snow and then on throught the French Alps.  Our passports were checked and then we proceeded on

French Alps

.  We arrived in Paris at 11.15pm and after getting lost we finally found our hotel and checked in.  Yay, a comfy hotel room with a very soft bed.  Up next morning to a lovely breakfast of croissants, tea and cereal.  Then back to the station to get to Gare du Nord and then onto Eurostar home to London. 

The Italian Alps

 The Eurostar trip is only 2 1/2 hours but seats are alot more cramped than the Italian ones.  Back to Kings Cross and then due to line closures it took us another two hours to finally get back to Stratford.  Home in time to put the washing through and get sorted so that the next day(last day of holidays) we can relax.  Wow, what a wonderful holiday.  One that will be appreciated for years to come.

The goodies.



Gare du Lyon



29th April 2011 - Venice



My birthday treat aboard the Lisa.







The Rialto Bridge



A busy waterway

After a restless night (hard bed) we woke and needed to get down for breakfast before it closed.  Two stale bread rolls and a cup of tea later, we hit the streets planning to go to Murano Island, place were Murano glass has been created for over 1000 years.  We wandered through the streets following the many signposts that were attached to the buildings.  It was an attempt to assist tourists to find their way to the hot spots.  Although there were many ways to each area so often the signs were very confusing.  We came across one of the many bridges and there was a gondalier sitting waiting for his next customer.  The gondola was called "Lisa" and was a sleek black boat with red and black trim.  We climbed aboard and set off silently slipping through the water.  At each corner the gondalier gave a whistle and whoever was sitting at the corner would tell him if the way was clear or not.  It was amazing the amount of traffic on those waterways.  We saw the rubbish boat, the delivery boats, a telecom boat, a builders boat full of dirt and a cement mixer and a variety of others.  

Tilting to get under the bridge

The tide was at it's full so some of the bridges our gondala had to be tilted sideways so the piece at the front would not hit the bridge.  The gondalier has to crouch down to get under most bridges.  He then took us into the Grand Canal amongst alot of traffic.  It was like a busy highway with posts to guide boats as to where they could go.  As we slipped back into a quiet waterway, the gondalier broke into song and serenaded us for about 5 minutes.  It was a lovely touch.  There were tourists at every bridge taking our photo and it felt quite cool especially as it was my birthday and all.  All too soon the ride was over and we were taken back to where we started from.  We then carried on back to the hotel as Rod had left something at the hotel.  We walked with confidence down this street and then down the next corner and so on until finally we arrived at "the railway station" totally the opposite to where we intended to go and a good 1.2km away from the hotel.  The guidebook was right. Everyone gets lost in Venice.   

The Rialto Bridge.  Covered with shops and the main bridge
in the middle of Venice. Used to have all gold dealers there.

 So we turned around and started back to try again.  Success at last.  Once we had been to the hotel we set off again for San Marco to catch the ferry to Murano.  This time we made it.  The trip over in a water taxi was quick and a picturesque journey.  We were greeted by a guide at Murano and taken to a glass blowing demonstration.  Fascinating to watch the glass master at work creating a jug.  So quick and he made it look so easy.  We were then taken through the glass museum and of course into the shop.  Murano has been making glass for over 1000 years and some of the works on show were truly incredible.  Of course, we chose a christmas decoration as a keepsake and Rod bought me a bracelet for my birthday as well.  Truly spoilt.   From Murano we then returned to Venice and wandered the streets looking for gifts and souvenirs.  

Murano Glass

Lots of beautiful masks, murano glassware, Turano lace and Italian leather goods.  I found a beautiful briefcase made of Italian leather so had to have that.  Also, found that nougat and chocolate are an Italian specialty as well so of course had to purchase some of that as well.  After a light dinner we had a quiet evening together enjoying the beautiful evening listening to a Vivaldi concert in San Marco Square.  A perfect end to a wonderful day.

Murano displays



28th April – Venice.

  


lots of odd shaped buildings



No, it's not a painting, it is the Grand Canal in Venice



One of the 400 bridges in Venice

A typical street

We had a knock at the door, and the train attendant was there with croissants and juice for our breakfast and told 40 mins till Milan.  We had time to wash, dress, eat breakfast and get sorted before the train arrived. We had an hour stopover between trains and then a 2 hour ride to Venice.  First impressions of Venice.  There is a lot of water and it is very muddy looking.  There are boats all over the place.  There are poles sticking out of the water and these we discovered were like road markings because there are so many boats.  The train station is right beside the Grand Canal and so ff we went with faithful Navman to walk the 1.1km to our hotel.  What a labrynth of narrow alleyways and bridges.  Also, lots of people.  If we didn’t have Navman we would never have found the hotel on our own.  The only  

The streets of Venice

markings were a piece of paper sellotaped to the window that said hotel.   We went into the narrow door and were told we could not have our room till after 1pm but were welcome to leave our bags there.  We wandered off and found a café to have a cup of tea.  From there we decided to try and find San Marco Piazzale as this was the main area of Venice.  Eventually after going through many alleyways and finding lots of bridges to climb up the steps and then down the steps, we found San Marco’s.  

View from the Rialto Bridge. The main bridge in Venice.

 A huge square and the lowest point on the island so very prone to flooding, the doorway of the church was under water.  On the square sits two churches, The Doges (Duke) Palace, Houses of Parliament (now a museum) and an impressive clock tower.  

San Marco Cathedral

Just around the corner from the Palace is the famous Bridge of Sighs 

One of the small waterways through the city

 (Ponte dei Sospri).  I had been looking forward to seeing this bridge but to my disappointment it was partially covered with scaffolding scrim.  We took all the photos that we could and then made our way back to the hotel where I was able to have a long awaited hot shower and a wee nana nap.  When we woke, we wandered back around the streets to watch the people, look in the amazing array of shops and find somewhere nice for dinner.  Day is complete.

Rod on the bridge to our hotel



27th April Rome to Venice

We thought we were allowed to sleep in today because we were not catching the train until 11pm so we knew it was going to be a long day.  We ate a leisurely breakfast in the hotel room and the packed our bags once again, trying to find room for all those little extras that we had purchased. Not an easy task as the bag is already pretty full.  We were allowed to leave our luggage at the hotel so off we went to try and get done the things that we had missed.  First, we headed for the bus station to get a ticket to go across Rome to the Pantheon.  They cost us €4 each plus €3 for a map. 

The occulus in The Pantheon

 They don’t run to a timetable in Rome apparently due to traffic and if the driver wants a coffee break he just stops and has one.  We found the right bus then climbed on along with heaps of others.  Boy, you’ve really got to keep your hands on your purse as there are seedy looking guys everywhere.  We got off and wandered to the Pantheon in the heat of the day.  We walked into it’s cool dimly lit interior.  The pantheon was built by Hadrian in 120AD on the site of a previous Roman temple that was Agrippa’s in 27BC.  

The Alter in The Pantheon

It was built then as a Pagan Temple and has since been reverted to a Christian Temple for the Catholics.  It is a perfect semisphere and it’s only light is through an almost 9m oculus in the centre of the dome. The dome is considered to be the most important architectural achievement by the Romans and was the largest dome in the world until the 15^th century and is still the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built.  As we walked in, the sun shone down in a beam that made it look almost magical.  The oculus is an open hole and apparently an amazing site on a rainy day.  The floor is gradient and there is a impressive drainage system that takes any water away.  The marble covered walls were beautifully patterned and used many different types of marble.  From there we moved on to the Colosseum.  We needed to take another bus so waited at the stop.  I got chatting to a local who was happy to advise us and to tell us about where to go for a swim (didn’t want to know that but there we are).  Construction of the Colosseum began in 72AD.  It was built by Jewish prisoners and was designed to seat 80,000 spectators.  When it was completed on 80Ad they had an inaugural opening which lasted for 100 days. 

Colosseum

 Food and wine was given for free at the colosseum and each section of the Colosseum  was designated to different types of people.  Senators and Ministers were near the Emperor, then knights and military tribunes.  Also, there were sections for young men and their tutors, women, married couples and servants.  It was usually uncovered but if it rained sailors would cover the top with huge sails.  In the opening it is documented that over 9000 animals were killed.  They were also able to fill the ring with water and stage mock sea battles.  Contrary to legends, no Christians were killed there.  They were killed down the road at Circus Maximus, an open ampi-theatre.  The Colosseum was destroyed over time by 3 separate earthquakes and eventually it became a cemetery and then a quarry as they took all of the marble from there to build some of the churches in the Renaissance period of the 15^th century.  It is truly an amazing sight even today nearly 2000 years later.  

The chains that bound St Peter as he was crucified

 From the Colosseum we went to the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains)

Part of the ceiling in St Peters Church

 where we were able to see another Michalangelo masterpiece.  This one was of Moses who he made under orders of Pope Julius II which was intended for the Popes funeral monument but didn’t get completed.  He has depicted Moses with horns because there was a misinterpretation when the Hebrew word was read as “horned” when it actually said “Radiant”.  

Moses by Michelangelo

Beneath the altar there is a special little nave which houses the “chains” that were said to have bound St Peter by Herod before he was crucified.  They were sent back to Rome from Constantinople and according to legend they were in two pieces when they left Constantinople and the miraculously rejoined when the returned to Rome.  This church was built in the 5^th century and is made up of a series of naves down the side each designed by different artists over the centuries so each have priceless art and each a little story.  We then went a couple of blocks to Santa Maria Maggiore (there is a church on practically every corner in Rome)  This one has a special nave with wood form the manger in which Jesus was placed after his birth.  Again, very big, very beautiful.  A few minutes after we entered there was an almighty bang of thunder and the heavens opened.  We decided that we would sit quietly as it was only 6pm and we had no desire to be wet till our train was due.  We stayed in there watching tour guides 

One of the many fountains in Rome

coming through with their little flags held high so all the tour group would follow dutifully behind.  When the rain had eased we left and found a cozy little restaurant for dinner.  By the time we had dinner, picked up our bags and got to the train station, it had stopped raining and we found a waiting room with comfy chairs, a powerpoint for the computer and we settled down to watch a movie and wait for our train.  When we finally got into our sleeper we found 2 bunk beds, a washroom and peace and quiet.  We slipped into bed and eventually got rocked to sleep by the motion of the train.

Tuesday April 26th – Rome Day 3

On the bus again first thing to go to Vatican City.  We were just about to join the huge queue when we were approached by a guy selling tours with no waiting in line.  We decided that’s what we would do so off we went.  After an hour or so we finally got into the museum. 
The paintings depict nine stories from the Christian Bible's Book of Genesis, including the most famous image, the Creation of Adam.

It is truly a wonderful sight although it was distracting being jammed into the chapel with hundreds of others.  The stories that we were told about different parts of the paintings give the work a whole new meaning.   We walked around in a bit of a daze because there was so much art and beauty around us, it was really hard to take it all in.  Truly magnificent.  From there we moved on to St Peters Square and lined up to enter The Basilica. We thought we would take a look at the cupola first. 5 euro and take the 882 steps up or 7 euro and take the lift and 331 steps up.  We paid our 7 euro and off we went.  

The map room of the Vatican.

 The elevator took us to the base of the dome where we could see down into the church.  WoW! We were so high.  The artworks there are all mosaics and beautifully done.  We then proceeded up the steps.  As it got higher the steps became more narrow and the walls of the out dome sloped in so we had to climb with our body at an angle.  The final flights of steps we used a rope as a handhold.  We then stepped out onto the top of the cupola to see Rome and the Vatican city at our feet.   It was amazing.  The walkway went right around the top of the dome and it was very crowded. We were able to get great views and pictures of the Vatican complex and all around.  After lots of photos the climb down was much quicker and easier than the climb up and we came down and into the church itself.   

Inside St Peters Cathedral

 The size of the building is immense. In the 1st century AD, the site of St. Peter's Basilica hosted the Circus of Nero and a cemetery. According to ancient tradition, St. Peter was martyred in the Circus and buried nearby. His simple grave was remembered and visited by the faithful, and in 324, Emperor Constantine began construction on a great basilica over the tomb. The shrine of St. Peter is still the central focus of the church today.

The view of St Peters Square from the Cupola (Dome)



In the mid-15th century it was decided that the old basilica should be rebuilt. Pope Nicholas V asked architect Bernardo Rossellino to start adding to the old church. This was abandoned after a short while, but in the late 15th century Pope Sixtus IV had the Sistine Chapel started nearby.

Construction on the current building began under Pope Julius II in 1506 and was completed in 1615 under Pope Paul V. Donato Bramante was to be the first chief architect. Many famous artists worked on the "Fabbrica di San Pietro" (as the complex of building operations were officially called). Michelangelo, who served as main architect for a while, designed the dome, and Bernini designed the great St. Peter's Square. Truly a magnificent structure.  We got out in time to catch the last bus back to the hotel.  Last day in Rome tomorrow.  So much still to see.

Part of the Popes garden



The Vatican Guards



The museum ceiling at The Vatican




 The guide we had was a young chap who was very knowledgeable so we had a very informative tour of the Vatican museums.  He left us at the entrance of the Sistine Chapel.  The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel was painted by Michelangelo between 1475 – 1483. It has the exact dimensions of the Temple of Solomon, as detailed in Christianity's Old Testament: 40 feet wide by 130 feet long.  Pope Julius II requested that Michelangelo repaint the ceiling in 1508. (Three years earlier, the artist had been summoned to design the pope's tomb.) The ceiling originally had a blue sky with golden stars. The artist agreed and spent most of the next four years creating one of the world's artistic masterpieces. The pope wanted to see paintings of the 12 Christian Apostles; the result was more than 3,000 figures.


One of the many ceilings at the Vatican Museum

 Taken together, the paintings are considered one of the world's greatest art masterpieces. Their realistic and extremely detailed depictions of some of Judaism's and Christianity's most famous moments are a wonder to all who see them.

Monday 25th April. Rome



Very wet day

  

The twin churches in Rome

It is Liberation Day in Italy and also Easter Monday so double whammy for us.  The crowds were huge wherever we went and not only that it rained for most of the day.  So on with the raincoats and we jumped on a open top bus tour and headed off to see the sights.  Because of Easter Monday the Pope was having a service at the Vatican so St Peters Square was jam packed. 

St Peters Square at The Vatican on Easter Monday

  Not going there today. We decided to go to the Spanish steps first so jumped off near there and rolled along with the crowd quite a long way.  The steps were absolutely covered in people and flowers. Apparently the azaleas are put on the steps every April to celebrate Spring.  We have been very lucky to see flowers and flags everywhere for the different celebrations.  While we were there a guy dropped down on one knee and proposed in front of everyone (2000+ people).  

The Spanish Steps if you can see them for all the people.

A great roar went up when she said yes.  It was so funny watching the poor girl.  She was quite overwhelmed by it all.  Off we went up the 137 steps and then we went back down.  From there we went to the Pantheon but alas there was a service so we were unable to get in.  So we went down the road in the rain to catch the bus back to our hotel.

24th April Florence then Rome. Easter Sunday

The cart



Up in smoke

 Got up and down to the Piazza where the Santa Maria Duomo Cathedral is as they have a big Easter celebration there.  There were dancers and flag waving and this huge carriage dragged in front of the Cathedral It took about an hour to prepare the cart during the Easter service.  At the conclusion of the service the priest came out and set off the fuse on the cart.  There were huge bangs and clouds of smoke as the firework laden carriage went through its routine.  It was an incredible sight as there were bangs in particular order and colored smoke at different times.  The whole piazza was crowded with people and it was very hard to see but the carriage was high enough for all to see.  The display went on for about 15 minutes and at the conclusion there was a huge cheer and the locals all hugged each other.  They all carried olive branches as well and were dressed in their best clothing.  We were so lucky to be able to observe that special tradition.  To celebrate Easter Italians share chocolate eggs, a special dove shaped cake and eat lamb on that day.  There were Italian flags flying from building windows everywhere and it had a real sense of a happy time.   From there we had to go back, get our bags and head for the train to Rome.  We caught a very nice train (Treinitalia) and we even had a hostess give us drinks and nibbles just like on a plane.  Two hours later we arrive in Rome.  We were only two blocks to our hotel and once again we are in the thick of things.  This hotel (Sweet Home) is in a building shared by 6 other hotels and again very nice, comfortable rooms.  The owner welcomed us and talked at length about the things we could do and had even mapped out an itinerary for our 3 day stay.  We dropped our gear and headed out to have a look around.  Every corner you turn there is an ancient church or building.  Statues and fountains are everywhere.  It is almost too much and you become a wee bit immune to it after a while.

The Trevi Fountain

  We went down to the Trevi Fountain and after a few twists and turns and double backing we finally came across it.   Along with the 1000 others who were there.  Certainly an amazing fountain and like the tradition says, we turned our backs, closed our eyes and tossed a coin over our shoulders.  This is to ensure that we will return to Rome another day.  Apparently Rod threw a coin in last time he was here and now he’s back so it must work.  We wandered back to the hotel and sat down to dinner at 10pm. 

The crowds, always the crowds.

 This seems to be the norm here.  The restaurant was at the bottom of the hotel so a short walk up to our room and crash.    

Unfortunately, I have picked up a cold and was happy to find my bed.


Sunset over Rome


 
  

Our train to Rome



Florence Day 3: 23 April



Rod was impressed by the huge bricks




The front of the Palace

A little bit slower to wake up this morning.  Legs and feet are feeling the pressure a bit.  Decided to try to see the Palazzo Pitti today which is the Palace of mainly the Medicci family.  We went off to get our tickets and Rod was able to get free entry as he is an EU passport holder and over 65 so a whole days sightseeing for 22 Euro today.  No photos allowed so we had to try and take it all in.  We ended up getting access to six different museums and 2 gardens on the one ticket so arrived at 9.45 am and staggered out at 6.30pm.  What an amazing place.  Each room (and there were 100’s of rooms) had decorated ceilings either with plaster work or painted and gilded.  Each one different, most depicting a biblical theme or in the latter years Napoleonic era.  The walls were either painted or covered with damask or silk.  Massive windows, curtains, furnishings and over 1400 paintings on show.  Many rooms had water features in them and beautifully carved furniture over different periods including marble table tops beautifully inlaid with bronze or gold leaf ornate legs. Each room also housed chandeliers bigger than I have ever seen. 

The centre section of the garden

 Hundreds of candles on each one.  Rod said, imagine the poor blokes who had to light and snuff out those candles each day.  Also, replacing them when they burnt low would have taken some time.  

Part of the huge staircase in one wing

There were bedrooms and the throne room and waiting rooms still furnished as if in the 1400’s.  Just amazing.  The gardens were huge and not at all what we had expected.  There were some great labrynth areas and huge trees but not many flower beds or colours.  Again lots of fountains and little hideaways where they would have taken lunch or tea or whatever.  Wonderful views over Florence.  

The view from one part of the garden

The garden was very steep and after going up and down in the palace, the gardens were really hard work.  One of the museums that I particularly enjoyed was the costume museum where they showed the clothing from then and through time.  They had such beautifully embroidered clothes (men and women) and all handmade, even their stockings and handbags, fans, hats etc.   The museum showed how things were made and with what.  The Medicci family employed all of their staff and they all lived in the several palaces around Florence.  Apparently the lady of the house employed a dress designer and paid him the same as the top artist was very paid.  Which was quite a substantial amount by the sounds of things.  We made our way back to one of the piazzas and on the way I bought some scarves.  

Part of the kitchen garden

 We had dinner near the square where David and the others are and just watched the hundreds of people wandering around.  Finally made our way back to the hotel where shoes were kicked off and we could relax.  Being on holiday is really hard work.