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Saturday 13th August 2011 - To Knocktopher Abbey



They show their individuality by painting their houses different colours




The church at Gowran where Edward Bruce once visited




One of the Templar Knights

Another Irish breakfast and we packed up to head to Knocktopher where we have a studio apartment for a week in a 13^th century abbey. On the way we stopped at Gowran where we saw an amazing church ruins.  We went in to see a guide there who then began to share with us the story and history of this area.  Among the artefacts there were the tombstones of two of the Knights of Templar.  Also, record of Edward Bruce (brother of Robert Bruce) and his journey there in 1316 where he was on a search for the 4^th relic that would join England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland.  St Patrick’s staff. A fascinating place. So much history.  Knocktopher is situated in County Kilkenny in the countryside, it is a lovely place to catch up on a bit of R & R before the new term starts.  We are on the top floor and with only one window that is fairly high we have got a nice garden view if we stand on tippy toes.  Room has small kitchen and ensuite bathroom so will be suitable for us for the week.  We went off to find food in the local village and once we had what we needed we went back to settle in.  A stroll around the extensive grounds sees what was once a grand establishment sadly neglected and now a new try at bringing it back to its former glory. We had a home cooked dinner for the first time in a while and really enjoyed it.  Early night tonight, let the holiday begin. 

Henry who greets us in the foyer. Scary eyes.
Somebody pinched his helmet



Humble abode



Friday 12th August 2011 - Day 2 Dublin

Up and after a full Irish breakfast we set off to town to get the list done.  First stop Trinity College where the Book of Kells resides.  There were guided tours by students of Trinity.  The first tour was about to depart but it was so large we were advised by one of the guides to wait 20 mins for the next one.  While we waited Rod and I both struck up conversations with the guides waiting.  Marcus (my guide) was studying history and politics and had visited NZ a couple of years ago so we had a great conversation about NZ and Ireland.  The tour commenced and was very interesting.  The college is on the banks of the River Lifey  and as a result the grounds are continually sinking.  The dining hall has been rebuilt 3 times over the last several hundred years as it keeps collapsing.  Aside from that Trinity is a relatively small campus and holds very austere buildings one of the most significant being the Old Library.  Trinity has an arrangement that they are entitled to receive a complimentary copy of every book ever printed and as a result they need to find ¼ mile of new shelving every year to accommodate these. There is not enough space on campus so if you wish to take out a particular book it need to be brought over from one of the numerous storage areas around Dublin.  We then went round the corner to see the Book of Kells and the line was very long.  We waited for a short time and decided we did not have that much time to wait so headed off to the James’s Gate Guinness Brewery. 

The monument of where William Pearse was executed

 We thought we would get in before lunch to avoid the crowds. Wrong!!! Again, long queues and so once we had our tickets, off we went.  The self guided tour took just over an hour and with a half of a half pint glass in the tasting room to keep us going we slowly made our way up the 7 floors of the glass of Guinness shaped building to the top where the bar had 360° view of the city.  There we could redeem our ticket for a pint of Guinness or soft drink.  Now I am not a fan of Guinness usually but I must say it does taste better in Ireland.  I have heard it doesn’t travel well and of course it is brewed in lots of other countries around the world including NZ so if you don’t want to travel to Ireland then find the brewery in NZ and visit.  It is well worth it.  From the brewery to the Kilmainham jail.  One of the oldest jails still standing.  This jail has appeared in several movies so it’s main “modern” area will be a familiar sight.  It was built in 1792 primarily to house the poor who were being made an example of. Men, women and children were all housed together and had remain in silence for 23 hours a day.  They were let out for exercise 1 hour per day where they had to walk in a circle for 1 hour in silence before being taken back to their cells.  This style was then changed and they decided that to mend their ways they needed to be kept busy so a variety of activities were devised. One being to dig a hole and then fill it up again, Another was to move a pile of rocks by hand from one place to another and then back again and of course they had the rock breaking crew who broke rocks for roads etc.  Crimes committed to earn this wee holiday included stealing bread, being a prostitute, theft etc.  Then when the “troubles” began  the jail became filled with political prisoners the most famous being from the Easter Rising of 1916 where a group of dissidents unhappy with English Rule took over the Post Office (GPO) on Easter Sunday and shots and cannons were fired before they were overpowered.  These included names like Pearse ( 2 brothers) McDonagh, Connolly etc.



Singing Cockles and mussels alive alive oh! Sweet Molly Malone standing
on the corner where she used to sell her wares.



Had to try the real thing at the actual brewery. It does taste
at the brewery than it does in NZ.

These men were eventually taken into the yard and shot.  William Pearse (the leader) had been shot in the leg and had an infection so he was carried into the yard by stretcher, tied to a chair and then shot.  The shooting of the 14 men over 3 days caused unrest and outrage and as a result the people rose up and that is how Southern Ireland became a Republic while Northern Ireland has become part of the United Kingdom. An interesting place.  Many sad stories of humans being badly treated and a terrible life that many must have had all those years ago.  Click on the link if you want to read more about the gaol. http://www.dochara.com/places-to-visit/forts-and-jails/kilmainham-jail From there we headed to the souvenir shop to make a few purchases and then on to the Arlington Hotel for a meal and a show featuring Irish music and dancing.  A long day but a fabulous experience.

The view from the Brewery 360 bar.



Kilmainham Jail. Recognise it from some famous movies?



 

The sinking Dining Room of Trinity

Dublin Ireland

Thursday 11^th August To Dublin:





There are statues everywhere of freedom fighters and politicians





The GPO (General Post Office) where a great siege was held in 1916

We drove down from Leeds back to London to drop off the flat keys to Manolo and then we had to return the rental car to the airport, £85 later for a stonechip on the windscreen and a spot on drivers fender that I swear was on the car already.  We finally made our way back to Stratford by about 9pm to the Holiday Inn Express to finally relax.  We had a quick look around Stratford and saw only Wilkinson’s had their front windows smashed and boarded up from the riots and looters on the previous 3 nights.  We had a good nights sleep and I used my cellphone to wake us at 5.45am to return to the airport.  It went off and we got up. Rod showered first and came back into the room to dress.  He picked up his watch and saw it was 5am.  I checked my phone and oops I was still on Austrian time!! We jumped back to bed for an extra 45 mins sleep. Once again this time at the right time and went down to breakfast and make our way to catch the bus.  Once we had checked in and made our way to gate 50, (It’s always the furtherest away gate) we saw that the plane was delayed an hour.  We have not yet caught a flight with Ryanair running on time.  We finally board and an hour and a half flight we land in a cool, rainy Ireland.  Headed to Avis to pick up the rental ( a little Nissan Micro, nothing special about this one).   With the trusty Navman telling us where to go we head into the city to find the B&B that is to be our home for the next two nights.  A nice house run by a welcoming woman.  After a refreshing cup of tea we headed into the city by bus.  When we got there we booked ourselves onto the hop on hop off tour and proceeded to get the guided tour of the city. Well, I did, Rod kept falling asleep.  A pretty city with lots of pubs (700 in total) and wide streets.  A mixture of the old with the new.  We have made a note to try and see the book of Kells, the jail, the Guinness storehouse and try and also get to the cathedral and then a spot of souvenir shopping might be in order.  We then jumped off the bus and headed to O’Neills for a genuine Irish meal.  The Kilkenny Draught was not as nice as a Tui but the seafood chowder was divine as was the fish and chips in Guinness batter.  Then find a bus to get back to the B&B.  Luckily I spotted the #4 so we jumped on and eventually he worked out we wanted to go to Ballsbridge.  Back to our room and relax.  Aaahh! The bed is so comfortable. Night all xx.



One of the 800 pubs in Dublin (The Bachelors Inn)



Dachau Germany

I have put this blog seperately from the rest of the Austrian trip because it was so different.  It was an amazing day and the day has left an impact on me that will never go away.  It was so important for us to visit this place to pay our respects and so that we can learn what should never be allowed to happen again.

Thursday 4^th August

Up nice and early to give my presentation for my interview.  After a couple of minutes getting connected, away I went. I was feeling very nervous because I really want this job.  It means a lot to me.  After the hour long discussion the interview was over so Rod and I decided to head to Germany and visit Dachau. 



One of the detention centres



An aerial view of some of the buildings that housed the prisoners



Some of the prisoners



It was raining in Austria so off we went.  It was about an hour and a half drive and by the time we got there we have put the rain behind us and it was a bright sunny day again.  We arrived at Dachau and found the concentration campsite easily.  It was free entry and so off we went not sure what to expect.  It was a very solemn and sobering place to visit.  The enormity of the events that took place there and walking through the buildings and rooms where people were kept, tortured and killed was hard to comprehend.  We went to one area and saw the foundations of the buildings and there was just row upon row upon row of long low buildings that housed over 36,000 people. Many of the buildings were allocated to certain scientists to 

There was a whole train with wagons full of bodies found.

 conduct their experiments such as the typhus ward and the ward where they gave men hypothermia and tested how long before they died.  Such atrocities you can hardly imagine one human being doing such things to another.  It was a very quiet drive home as each of us tried to assimilate what we saw.  I felt very strongly that we needed to see Dachau so that the memory of what happened never dies and never gets the opportunity to happen again.  It is hard to talk about what we saw and learned there and it will never leave me.

Austria - The Final Day

Saturday 6^th

Our final full day in Austria.  We decided to visit the Kimmlerweiss waterfalls.  The fifth largest drop of waterfalls in the world.  Apparently it was over an hours “often difficult” climb to reach the top, we decided that we were not prepared to do “often difficult” so we drove to a couple of spots where we could see parts of the waterfall.  It was certainly spectacular but I wouldn’t have thought it was that long.  We then set off to have a ride up a gondola to the top of an alp.  It was a great ride and a very long way up.  The views were amazing and it was so hot.  We had our picnic lunch, wandered around enjoying the views then caught the downward ride back to the car.   A wonderful way to end our trip to a beautiful country.

The route that we were taking.

Halfway there!!!



The hills are alive with the sound of ........



Austria Day 6

Friday 5^th August

Unique water trough. Yes, that is the bung near the middle!

 

All made of wood

A very slow start this morning as we are both still feeling the muscles that haven’t been used much lately.  We decided to go for a drive to the neighboring villages.  We had a lovely day just driving and looking at the lovely chalets and the flowers on the balconies.  Each little hamlet seems to take great pride in their area by flowers and sculptures or statues carved from wood.  Austria is a very clean and green area and everywhere looks very well cared for.  We managed to find a wee shop that sold some unusual homemade food and alcohol.  Managed to buy a bottle of walnut schnapps for Peter Gorton to enjoy. Back to St Johann to try yet another café for dinner.  This one gave us a complimentary drink which was a cherry liquor which was quite tasty.  As we wandered back to the hotel in the rain we came across a brass band giving a concert in the park.  A very nice end to the evening.



Some of the chalets

A common sight in the area.

Austria Day 5

 

Wednesday 3^rd August

Down the wooden rails was fun but very hot on the seat.



The body of a miner preserved in salt.



A pillar of salt ready for transporting.


 

We decided to check out the Salzwelten salt Mine and a Celtic Village.  We had to kit ourselves out in a not so glamorous pair of white trousers and a jacket to protect our clothing.  We were then taken to a small train that we had to sit astride.  That took us into the mine a couple of kms and then we had to go down.  This was via two wooden rails that we sat on in pairs and slid down.  It was quite hilarious and rather hot on the posterior.  As we wandered through the mine we wer shown a variety of displays and films explaining how the salt was mined and how precious it was to the residents.  The particular mine we went through actually crossed the border into Germany.  At the conclusion of the tour we were  given a miniature pot of salt as a souvenir.  Right next door was a celtic village and the various buildings and homes depicted what life was like all those years ago.  There were some interesting ideas on forms of cooking and beds etc.  Lots more learning about the history of these people. Off to Hohenwerfen in the afternoon which translated means Castle at Werfen.   This castle is perched on a outcrop of rock half way up the side of the alps.  It is a beautifully kept castle and the only access is via a cable car.  As we arrived they were about to begin a display of the falcons they keep there.  They were beautiful to watch as they soared above us and when the falconer gave a call they swooped down to grab the food from his hand.  A wonderful sight.  After the display we went back into the castle and the wind was blowing furiously and it was very hard to walk uphill against the wind. A great display of weapons through the ages and then we headed back home for an early night and to prepare for my job interview in the morning. 


The falconer with his Eagle

The bedroom

The kitchen


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Two of the falcons fighting over a chick.

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The beautiful Hohenwerfen. That sloped lawn is where the Falconers performed.  A windy place but an amazing view.





Austria Day 4

Tuesday 2^nd August

Up and off to the Eisriesenwelt today.  This is the world’s largest ice cave and is in the Tennenbirge mountain range. It is a system of caves over 40km in length and has a passage of cold air that blows through which freezes the thaw water as it trickles in.   and in some areas huge hills of ice.  Guided tours are available through the cave system.  But first you have to get up to the cave which is 1641m up the alp. So a 10 min uphill walk from the carpark to the café, then a 20min uphill walk to the ticket office, then a 20 min uphill walk to the cable car, then a 3 min ride in the cable car, then a 20 min walk up a steep bit to the cave. The temperature was about 25C so we took it fairly slowly and I was already stiff from the gorge the day before.We finally got to the cave and saw a big hole in the side of the mountain.  We sat down and caught our breath (I had a quiet heart attack) and then had to rug up and be ready for the 0C temperatures.   Our guide was Hannes and he said all English speakers on this tour.  He then said who is native English speaker.  We put our hands up and when asked said we were from NZ. Perfect he said you are my assistants.  Come to the front please. (Uh,oh!) We gathered at the door and were handed a Davy lights which runs on carbide which is a small naked flame which wasn’t giving off much light.   Off we went, Hannes said we have only 700 steps up before we get to the top. I could feel my legs wincing in pain.  Off we went, Hannes started chatting to me and asking questions, meanwhile I am trying to keep going up the steps, talking, puffing and trying not to die.   At about 1/3 of the way, I said stop.  He said “not yet we have got further to go” I said “stop”.  I think some of the rest of the party were pleased as I could see some gaps.  My legs were burning and my lungs were burning.  Rod was right behind me and his legs were sore as well.  We rested for about 2 mins if we were lucky and off we went again.  It was cold and we were in agony.  We got to a part where the staircase split into two and Hannes said we could stop here if we wanted and catch another tour back.  

Almost a magical place

 I said no way, but you have to go a little bit slower.  He relented when he saw others leaning on the railings.  Finally, we made it to the first area.  He told me where to stop and that I could not let anyone go past me.  He went off the path and onto the first ice mound.  He lit a magnesium cord which formed a backlight to the ice formations.  They were breathtaking.  Apparently a climber found a lake on the mountain and dived into it into an underwater entrance.  He came up and discovered this network of caves.  The ice was a variety of shapes and forms depending on how it melted and was then reformed.   It was beautiful.  Off we went again, up more steps.  The next stop was a frozen lake that Hannes stood on and zoomed to the middle.  He talked about the historical and geographical nature of the caves and on we went.  

A truly amazing experience

 Each stop was quite different and was so beautiful with the light on the ice.  Hannes asked me at the top of the 700^th step “Are you glad you came?”  Oh, yes there was no way I was going to turn back, it was a once in a lifetime event.  On we went, Hannes telling me where to stop next and then disappearing down one entrance only to pop out at another and then light up his mag cord to show us the wonderful sights.  He ended up giving us his email as he is planning to come to NZ and wanted to catch up with us.  The complete tour was 75 minutes and was 2.2km long including the 700 steps.  As we came back to the entrance there is a large door that we had to go through.  As soon as that door opened the gust of wind nearly took us off our feet.  We sat down to have lunch and rest before the long and winding road back down to the carpark.  Beautiful views on the way down.  What a wonderful memory that day and also a wonderful sight when we finally reached the carpark.  We travelled back to the hotel, climbed wearily out of the car and went to the hot tub to soak the aching bones.  What a wonderful day but my poor legs.  Off to a café close to the hotel for a light dinner before hitting the sheets.


The view inside







The view from the trail



Our Guide Hannes



Yes we walked all that way and it was only about half the trail.

 

Austria Day 3

Monday 1^st August

Looking down into the gorge.

Looking down the narrow gorge.

Up for breakfast.  We went down to the restaurant and wandered along the choices.  Wow! You name it, it was there.  About 10 different types of fresh fruit plus half a dozen tinned fruits, yoghurt, a variety of cereals, cheeses, meats, breads, croissants, sweet cakes, tomato, peppers, hard boiled eggs.  Plus the waiters offered us bacon & eggs, omelets or scrambled eggs.  As soon as we sat down a fresh pot of Austrian coffee was on our table with scalded milk.  Coffee is yummy here.  There was also about 6 different types of juice and about 10 different varieties of teas.  Something for everyone.  We had a lovely breakfast and then headed off for Liechtensteinklamm which is a gorge which was forged during the last ice age by a glacier as the climate changed. Prince Johann von und zu Liechtenstein donated money in 1876 so that walkways could be built to the waterfall for visitors to enjoy.  The result is a stunning walk through tunnels and over bridges through the gorge.  We arrived just after noon and the sun was forming rainbows through the spray of the waterfall.  A lovely place.  Got back to hotel and Rod went off to buy some togs so we could enjoy the pool and the hot tub.  We found a pair for €20 and headed back to hotel.  When we looked closer at the togs they had a picture of the north island on them and the words said 90 mile reef point.  All the way to Austria to buy NZ togs.  Too tired for dinner tonight so off we go to a café for ice cream.   We chose “negro in white shirt” as our dessert and received a chocolate pudding with lovely hot sauce and cream.  Home to bed.  My legs are sore!!

The waterfall at the end of the walk.

Austria Day 2

Sunday 31^st July

 Up we got at 5.30 and off in the hotels shuttle service for £4.50.  I think the driver either had a death wish or a hankering to be a race car driver.  We had booked Lufthansa and had a very comfortable flight over with a change in Frankfurt to Austria Airlines.  When we arrived in Frankfurt we went through the various official stuff and then off we went to go through the scanner.  Rod did his big undress thing that he always does.  Off with his watch, belt, camera and shoes.  Wallet out of pocket, check for bits and  pieces then through he goes.  My turn, laptop out of backpack, off I go.  No, beeper goes off.  I get taken to a cubicle. Shoes off, scanned again, then I get patted down by customs.  All clear.  I go through but no they have my bag.  “Open bag please”.  I open it, Oh no, my underwear is on top!!.  Out it comes.  They are after my portable hard drive.  Out it comes.  “What is this?” “Portable hard drive” “Huh?” “For computer” “Huh?” ”For my files from my computer”. “Come with me please” “oh no!” I’m thinking what are they going to do? “They take me into a cubicle about 50 metres down a corridor and in there is one of those machines that I have seen on the airport programme on telly. They ask me to open the case and take out the hard drive through lots of pointing.  I do so, he then tries to prise it open.  I shook my head and said “No”  He looks at me then talks to the other officer.  They then swipe it all over and the case too with a cloth and put the cloth into the machine. The officer at the machine looks at me and says “Ok, you go”.  I grabbed my drive and was gone back to find Rod.  He was looking a bit worried as I didn’t even get the chance to say to him to wait.  We packed everything up and scurried away.  I wasn’t even guilty of anything but they made me feel very nervous.  Finally, we arrive in Salzburg and head off to find the car rental.  The lady there says, there has been a mix up with your order. I though “What now?” She then said we have given you a bigger car at no extra cost. A BMW. That’s fine says I nonchalantly as if I drive BMW’s every day.  Off we go down to find it.  Pretty car, we load all the gear in and Rod gets in, then gets out and gets in on the other side.  Left hand drive.  It feels weird as I have never driven a left hand drive before and I keep grabbing for the door handle to change gears.  Okay, let’s see how we go. Out of the garage and swerve onto the right side of the road.  I got into the right lane and lucky it was the right lane that we needed to be in to go to Sank Johann Im Pongau where the resort was.  Rod meanwhile had got the Navman up and running, we had already programmed it in and off we went.  About 40km later we pull up without too many grey hairs at Alpenland Sporthotel.  Rod goes in while I try and relax a wee bit. Nervewracking this right hand driving.Out he comes with a pretty girl in custom clothing and she says welcome to Austria.  I was thinking, this is nice.  She then tells us we have the wrong hotel.  The right one is the same name but in a different area.  She shows us where on a map and meanwhile I searched on Navman again.  Found the right one and off we go.  We had to go through the alps and it was an amazing trip.  They are so majestic and breathtaking.  The houses are all pretty chalets that have window boxes overflowing with flowers around the balconies and everything is so beautifully kept.  We eventually arrived at the right hotel and got settled.  Lovely room with excellent facilities.  We went for a wander around and found the pool, the sunbeds, the gym, the restaurant, the tennis courts.  We then wandered into the town and saw very neat and tidy streets with well displayed windows.  There were even large glass display cabinets in the footpath that were full of displays from the shops.  Obviously a safe town with very little trouble.  It looks a fairly affluent area and being amongst the ski trails primarily is a winter town.  We found a café and ordered dinner, deer stew with potato dumplings for Rod and Chicken for me.  Lovely big meals.  I also had a Kaiser beer which was very cold and very tasty.  We went back to have a swim but Rod found he had forgotten his togs so that plan was changed.  We went back to the room and sorted out the brochures ready to plan the week.