The Grand Adventure: Austria Day 4

Tuesday 2^nd August

Up and off to the Eisriesenwelt today. This is the world’s largest ice cave and is in the Tennenbirge mountain range. It is a system of caves over 40km in length and has a passage of cold air that blows through which freezes the thaw water as it trickles in. and in some areas huge hills of ice. Guided tours are available through the cave system. But first you have to get up to the cave which is 1641m up the alp. So a 10 min uphill walk from the carpark to the café, then a 20min uphill walk to the ticket office, then a 20 min uphill walk to the cable car, then a 3 min ride in the cable car, then a 20 min walk up a steep bit to the cave. The temperature was about 25C so we took it fairly slowly and I was already stiff from the gorge the day before.We finally got to the cave and saw a big hole in the side of the mountain. We sat down and caught our breath (I had a quiet heart attack) and then had to rug up and be ready for the 0C temperatures. Our guide was Hannes and he said all English speakers on this tour. He then said who is native English speaker. We put our hands up and when asked said we were from NZ. Perfect he said you are my assistants. Come to the front please. (Uh,oh!) We gathered at the door and were handed a Davy lights which runs on carbide which is a small naked flame which wasn’t giving off much light. Off we went, Hannes said we have only 700 steps up before we get to the top. I could feel my legs wincing in pain. Off we went, Hannes started chatting to me and asking questions, meanwhile I am trying to keep going up the steps, talking, puffing and trying not to die. At about 1/3 of the way, I said stop. He said “not yet we have got further to go” I said “stop”. I think some of the rest of the party were pleased as I could see some gaps. My legs were burning and my lungs were burning. Rod was right behind me and his legs were sore as well. We rested for about 2 mins if we were lucky and off we went again. It was cold and we were in agony. We got to a part where the staircase split into two and Hannes said we could stop here if we wanted and catch another tour back.

Almost a magical place

I said no way, but you have to go a little bit slower. He relented when he saw others leaning on the railings. Finally, we made it to the first area. He told me where to stop and that I could not let anyone go past me. He went off the path and onto the first ice mound. He lit a magnesium cord which formed a backlight to the ice formations. They were breathtaking. Apparently a climber found a lake on the mountain and dived into it into an underwater entrance. He came up and discovered this network of caves. The ice was a variety of shapes and forms depending on how it melted and was then reformed. It was beautiful. Off we went again, up more steps. The next stop was a frozen lake that Hannes stood on and zoomed to the middle. He talked about the historical and geographical nature of the caves and on we went.

A truly amazing experience

Each stop was quite different and was so beautiful with the light on the ice. Hannes asked me at the top of the 700^th step “Are you glad you came?” Oh, yes there was no way I was going to turn back, it was a once in a lifetime event. On we went, Hannes telling me where to stop next and then disappearing down one entrance only to pop out at another and then light up his mag cord to show us the wonderful sights. He ended up giving us his email as he is planning to come to NZ and wanted to catch up with us. The complete tour was 75 minutes and was 2.2km long including the 700 steps. As we came back to the entrance there is a large door that we had to go through. As soon as that door opened the gust of wind nearly took us off our feet. We sat down to have lunch and rest before the long and winding road back down to the carpark. Beautiful views on the way down. What a wonderful memory that day and also a wonderful sight when we finally reached the carpark. We travelled back to the hotel, climbed wearily out of the car and went to the hot tub to soak the aching bones. What a wonderful day but my poor legs. Off to a café close to the hotel for a light dinner before hitting the sheets.